Installation of LITESTONE™
Cut – Out for Sink and Hotplate
- Place sink or hotplate, template in position and outline with a pencil where it needs to be cut.
- Remember to allow for the lip, and make sure of the position, that it is correct where it needs to be cut.
- Using a masking tape. Mask the lines as outlined to be cut.
- Retrace the lines to be cut, over the masking tape, so as they are clearly visible.
- Now make a hole with your drill, on a board to use as a guide for drilling.
- Now place the board, in one of the corners as marked.
- Clamp the board down to secure it so as there is no movement.
- Now drill the hole right through the Benchtop.
- Repeat this step on all 4 Corners.
- You should now have all 4 holes drilled in every corner.
- Now using your Circular Saw, cut along the marked straight lines from hole to hole.
- Repeat this step until all 4 lines have been cut.
- If your Saw has not cut right through the Benchtop, you can flip the Benchtop over and cut the backing with a Stanley Knife.
- Turn over your Benchtop again, to be with face up, gently push the cut out section and the sink or hotplate section will be exposed.
Fixing an edge
- Measure and mark with a pencil where the Benchtop needs to be cut.
- Using your Masking Tape, mask the line where you have marked to be cut.
- Remark line to be cut again, so as it is clearly visible.
- Using a straight edge, place along the line you need to cut.
- Clamp the straight edge down, so there is no movement.
- Remember to allow for the distance for the guide on your Circular Saw, by placing the Circular saw against the straight edge, and the Blade should be in directly in line exactly where you need to cut.
- Using your Circular Saw, gently cut along the line as marked.
- Don’t force the Saw, but rather gently guide it to cut.
- When reaching the end of your cut, slow right down to cut the edge of the Benchtop to achieve a perfect cut.
- Take the masking tape off, and clean the dust completely before gluing the spare edge as provided.
- Turn the Benchtop over measure 7mm from the edge of your cut and mark with a pencil.
- Using a straight edge, as a guide, cut the Honeycomb structure with a Stanley knife up to the underside of the Benchtop.
- Clean all the Honeycomb structure off the benchtop to prepare for gluing.
- Using a clean cloth, with Methylated Spirits, clean both sides of the stone that need to be glued together.
- When completely clean and dried, apply the Epoxy gently and evenly, on the spare edge, where it is grooved.
- THE EPOXY HAS A WORKING TIME OF ABOUT 8-10 MINUTES (UNDER NORMAL ROOM TEMPERATURE) BEFORE IT STARTS TO HARDEN, SO THIS STEP NEEDS TO BE WORKED QUICKLY.
- Gently place the spare edge up against the Benchtop, and manoeuvre it in position by moving it left and right, up and down, so the epoxy has spread evenly.
- Make sure that the spare edge is placed correctly in position to harden.
- Using a Blade, run along the top and sides to remove all access epoxy, whilst holding the spare edge in place.
- Using your masking tape, tape the Spare edge onto the Benchtop, and allow to bond.
- After Bonding is complete 20 MINUTES, take masking tape off, and clean with the Blade any access epoxy of the Benchtop.
- Using a small block of wood, and using Wet & Dry Sandpaper, start with a dry sand paper with a 60 grit, and run along all the edges to completely clean all excess epoxy off the Benchtop.
- Repeat this step, by using a dry 120 grit of sandpaper, until the edge is eased to a smooth finish.
- Now using a wet 400 grit sandpaper, repeat until a semi-polish edge is achieved.
- Now using a wet 800 grit sandpaper, repeat until a polished finished edged is achieved.
- Once edge is completely finished, turn Benchtop over and with the Silicon, fill the gap between Honeycomb structure and Stone. Allow to harden.
- Your Benchtop is now complete.
Fixing of your Benchtop to cabinet
- Place Benchtop in place.
- Make sure that it is level, and position is correct.
- Take the Benchtop off.
- Using Silicon, run along all the cabinet lines where Benchtop will sit.
- Place Benchtop again in to position, press down, and allow Silicon to harden. We recommend overnight.
Joining 2 Panels together
- Once Benchtops have been fixed following above steps.
- Using the epoxy glue provided, run evenly and thinly along the joint.
- Using a Blade, run along the joint, so as the epoxy will go into the joint, and at the same time, to remove any access.
- Using a clean cloth with Methylated Spirits, clean the surface of any excess epoxy.
- Allow to dry. (20 minutes)
- If there is added epoxy, and it has not been cleaned well enough. Repeat steps 21-24 of FIXING AN EDGE.
Tap Hole and Power Point cut out
- Using your drilled board as a guide.
- Clamp down so there is no movement.
- Drill where required for your tap hole or power point.
- Drill several holes to achieve the required opening.
- You can also use a Grinder to do this step if required.
Cutting a Splashback to size
- Measure and mark with a pencil, where splashback needs to be cut.
- Using masking tape, mask along the cutting line.
- Remark again with a pencil, so the cutting line is clearly marked.
- Using a straight edge, clamp down along the cutting line.
- Remember to allow for the distance between the circular saw and guide.
- The Circular Saw Blade must be in line, with the cutting line.
- Gently cut along the cutting line until complete.
- Remove masking tape.
- Using a small bock of wood and sand paper, ease off the sharp edge.
- Repeat this step with all grades of sandpaper as in steps 21-24 of FIXING AN EDGE.
- As the Splashback is only 5-6mm thick, there is no need to polish the edge, only take the sharpness of the edge that is cut, and that is only necessary, if the edge is exposed. Otherwise it is not needed
Fixing of Splashback.
- Using Silicon, run horizontal and vertical lines on the wall where splashback is to be fixed, about 400mm apart.
- Place Splashback in position, and push in place against the wall.
- Hold in place for a few minutes and leave to dry. We recommend overnight.
What tools are required
Always cut outside to prevent dust.
Always wear a protective Musk when cutting and Eye protection glasses.
- Drill with drill bit (diamond, use the same size as for tap hole)
- Circular Saw with Blade (diamond) to suit.
- – Pencil
- – Masking tape (wide)
- – Straight edge
- – Wet & Dry Sandpaper with grits of, 60, 120, 400, 800 (only required if to fix an edge)
- – Stanly Knife (only if required to fix an edge, and a under mount sink)
- – Silicon – Small block of wood (for sanding, only required for fixing an edge)
- – Board to use as a guide for drilling a hole. – Blade (only required if fixing an edge)
- – Methylated Spirits and clean cloth (only required if fixing an edge, or joining 2 panels together)
- – Clamps 2 off.
What comes with your LITESTONE™ Benchtop
Your LITESTONETM Benchtop comes complete with a spare side edge, a matching colour tube of epoxy glue with gun.
Easy to install lightweight stone benchtops & Splashbacks.
Stone Bench tops for the price of laminate
DIY & Trades
Perfect for the home renovator, handyman & trades. DIY friendly, for same day install.
Where can I use LITESTONE™
Kitchens, Bathrooms, Laundries, Shower Walls and Feature Walls.
Use as a Benchtop or Splashback.
World's 1st DIY STONE Benchtop
LITESTONE™ is the only lightweight stone product in the world you can pick up in store, take home, cut to required size (if needed) and install yourself all on the same day.
LITESTONE™ is Proudly Australian
For added peace of mind all LITESTONE™ quartz multi-purpose products come with a 10 year Warranty